Hello and welcome! Friends, family, colleagues, partners – this will be my outlet over the coming months, and hopefully beyond. I am taking some time away from work to travel and have decided to offer a piece of myself to the vast web of internet media in the hopes it catches your interest. I hope you enjoy, please do reach out if you have any questions, recommendations or even just to say hello – subscribe at the bottom of the page to stay in the loop!
I would like to open this post with a quick thought – social media is overwhelmed by cheap lies, click bait phrases, and surface level falsehoods, which when uncovered reveal a much more complex reality. The challenges people experience, beneath the surface tell a much richer story and are often the most valuable learning opportunities. With that in mind, I have decided to carve out the time to spend some time doing the simplest thing possible, walking. However I have no doubt that this will come with its own challenges…
On a clear day, due to the curvature of the earth, the furthest you can see is just 5 kilometres to the horizon. It would take just under an hour and a half to walk this, give or take due to terrain and weather. But once you reach your destination, a new horizon appears which then becomes your next starting point. Yet once arrived at what was your destination, is now a starting point to reach a new emerged horizon! Do this 5 times a day for 120 days, across the diverse landscapes of New Zealand, and you have just stumbled across Te Araroa (The Long Path) – ha, simple!
Te Araroa is a trail located in New Zealand, spanning its complete length from the northern most point Cape Reinga, all the way to Bluff in the southern island. Covering over 3000km, it traverses beaches, dense forests, bustling cities, small villages, volcanoes and rugged mountain passes. The trail was established in 1994 by an outdoor enthusiast and journalist Geoff Chapple and has been since been enjoyed by tens of thousands of walkers. Below I have show both a map of the trail and cast NZ across Europe as I have found that many people (including myself) did not know how the two regions compare!
People often say journeys like this, gap years and mid life crises, are to “find ones self” – however I believe that this takes a lifetime, and even then I believe “I” shall still not have been found. Instead, I have the willingness, support of those around me and the incredible opportunity to lose myself in exploration and conversation with people I meet on the way. Ultimately, it’s about the experiences and connections that shape you, rather than the pursuit of an elusive self.
In a way, you might call it an escape, the great escape. Here is the story behind how I prepared, and my ambitions on the trail, enjoy!
For context, the time of writing – Oct 2024
T-minus 1+ Years: The Binge
Growing up, I had always been adventurous. I had been part of the scouts, performed in musicals, tested my luck in sports and practiced musical instruments. As time passed, I found myself having less and less time for exploration, and instead I was memorising exam answers and learning processes that would have not existed 100 years ago. I was moulding myself into a productive member of society.
Still, I held onto that part of me that enjoyed taking risks, having a bit of fun, and building things.
For those of you who do not know, I am half Slovak. Most years I would visit Slovakia to see family, and no matter what, it never let me down. I remember running down mountain tracks, hopping each stone as fast as I could, blitzing down black ski runs like a lunatic, or just seeing the view when I reached the top of the hill—it was always worth it. Rain or shine, the outdoors had a way of offering something new every time.
But sometimes, I think we romanticize nature. It’s often sold as this perfect escape, with picturesque landscapes. The reality, though, can be wild and unpredictable. Nature has a way of reminding Man of just how small he is. Currently, my thoughts are with those experiencing hurricane Milton as it rages through central Florida and it is events like these that illustrate that nature is not just a canvas for our enjoyment; it is a complex system that operates on its own terms. While we may seek solace in its beauty, we must also respect its capacity for chaos.
I had attended university to study Physics, seeking to better understand the world around us. However, the more questions I answered, the more I realized that each solution, while satisfying in the moment, always led to a new set of questions. It became clear that the more I learned, the more I realized how much remained just out of reach, leaving the world both explained and endlessly mysterious. I had started realise the magic of wonder – accepting something “as is” and finding contempt in its mystery. There is a certain beauty in the admiration of the unknown, what once was a source of great frustration is now liberating. I challenge you, the reader, to take a moment put aside your day to day and think about what truly wonders you.
I would rather wonder at the marvels of a rainbow than enter the futile loop for its explanation, the principle of infinite regress.
By no means am I implying that problems should remain unsolved. After all, no matter how many questions you answer, each solution inevitably brings another question. But at some point, you must take a step back and take a moment to wonder – that is where beauty lies. Without curious minds, innovation would cease to exist and the world as we know it would not be possible. Imagine if one had never asked “how can we do this better?”. Just this week SpaceX successfully caught the biggest rocket ever flown in two “chopstick” arms! Physics has enabled us to design semiconductors, generate lift for planes, heat our food in the blink of an eye, and so much more! However, whilst physics hands us the blueprint, the practice of wonder fosters creativity, humility and a deeper connection between others in the world. Have you ever truly connected with someone over an equation, or is it more likely the shared awe of the universe?
As I graduated, I fell face-first the world of software engineering – a far cry from the experiences I have just spoken about. A structured system well laid out: product owners, developers, deadlines and pipelines.
T-minus 1 Year: A Friend’s Journey
September 2023, a school reunion brings old friends together. I managed to catch up with someone who had just finished hiking the Appalachian Trail. His stories of spending half a year trekking over peaks and through valleys, encountering both beauty and difficulty, left a strong impression. If you haven’t checked out his blog already please do – The Eye of an Archer. Something so simple – just walking. Whilst I had undergone multi day trips that involved hiking before, this was something else; his experience added fuel to my appetite, and I knew I wanted to plan something ambitious for myself.
T-minus 8 Months: The World is my Oyster
March 2024. Initially I thought – why don’t I just do the Appalachian Trail, that’s it! However after mulling it over with friends, family and quite a lot of googling, I found myself drawn to something different: New Zealand’s Te Araroa.
Ironically, it’s probably the furthest place from the UK I could have chosen, yet shares a very similar climate thanks to both being similar sized islands. Though I admit, undeniably more beautiful. It ticked all the checkboxes.
Whilst researching options, I stumbled across a series of notable trails/regions that I aspire to visit in the future:
- Scottish Highlands (1 week)
- Tour Du Mont Blanc, multi-country (2 weeks)
- GR20, Corsica (2 weeks)
- Hunza Valley, Pakistan (2 weeks) (I promise)
- Mt Everest Base camp, Nepal (2 weeks)
- PCT, USA (5 months)
- Himalaya Trail, Nepal (5 months)
T-minus 6 Months: Finding the Time
May 2024. I asked around about sabbatical options and long leave policies at work and was pleasantly surprised to find out that I could take up to six months of unpaid leave. However, it wasn’t all straightforward—I had to make a strong case for my long leave, and it needed approval at multiple levels before it was granted.
That being said, after a couple weeks of hoping, the dates were finally confirmed in writing: 4 November 2024 to 31st March 2025. I began to think about logistics and what I would need to make this trip work.
- Is this even possible to walk all the way, what’s the route?
- Where do I sleep?
- How I am supposed to carry my life on my back for 5 months?
- How often will I see civilization?
- What do I eat?
- Will I smell?
- What gear do I need?
- Will my weak ankles survive? (from previous sporting injuries)
I plan on answering these in future posts however I will give you the rundown on what I knew at the time.
The trail is marked in detail, however every year slight alterations are made due to maintenance, ill weather and new tracks opening up. Travelling Te Araroa consists of mainly walking, wading some rivers, hitchhiking round others, a couple days in a canoe, perhaps a bike section and a few ferries. I will be sleeping in a tent most nights in campgrounds and huts – for which you can buy a Backcountry Hut Pass that will be included in the Te Araroa trail pass. I would be able to resupply every 3-4 days (and on one section 10 days) in at least a village shop which would dictate my meals for the following days. Will I smell? Most likely as I guess I wont be showering all that often. What gear do I need? Lightweight. Oh and we shall see how my ankles hold up…
The trail typically takes people 4 months to complete, depending on conditions like weather, fitness and number of rest days. And it was only after all of these questions that I realised that I was actually taking 5 months off work and only seeing New Zealand. Perhaps I could fit another other place in to fill up that extra month? I had heard about good experiences from Vietnam, visiting: Hà Giang, Hạ Long Bay, Đà Lạt… and it was on the way, well only a 3,000km detour… at least it was east.
T-minus 5 Months: Flights Booked
I began to create an excel spreadsheet to keep track of:
- Places to visit
- My travel route
- Attractions
- Distance walked (only for Te Araroa)
- Accommodation Booked
- Travel, food and accommodation costs
Below shows my planned journey and map of flights.
Right: Outbound flight path. Omitted return flight.
T-minus 4 Months: Gear Obsession
July and August 2024. With three months to go, I became focused on my kit. The world of camp gear is vast, and I spent hours every night agonising over the perfect combination of equipment. The challenge was finding the right balance between durability, weight, and cost. Could I carry everything I needed without overpacking? I enjoyed the process, carefully selecting each item, knowing it would be with me for months, and hopefully years to come. Though at times I did find myself fixating on the tiniest improvements, marginal gains that could easily be undone by eating something as small as a single chocolate bar (100g).
Gear needs to be light and small enough to fit in a backpack (without breaking your back), however durable enough to ensure it can withstand months of backpacking and New Zealand’s extreme weather. I set a target for 10kg maximum base weight which included everything minus consumables and worn items. It is often recommended that your total pack weight should stay under 20% of your body weight for comfort and safety – this includes food and water. At around 6″1 & 95kg I thought this would be appropriate.
Shoes are hugely important when hiking long distances, they may make or break you trail. In order to find to correct pair, I ended up going to a store near me to try on pairs. I visited numerous stores: Blacks, Sports Direct, Trespass, Decathlon, local sports shops and of course Amazon – this was by far the most efficient option. I ordered a range of trail shoes to figure out what fit my feet best.
There are many different types of shoes to consider, high ankle, zero drop, cushion, arch support, waterproofing, insoles, toe gap… the list goes on. These are small decisions to make before the trail that could massively impact your experience. Everyone’s feet are different, find the pair that suits you. In order to figure out what I wanted, I had to ask myself what the trail was going to be like. Being an island, New Zealand is no stranger to wet weather and the course of the TA runs through many rivers (100+). It is because of this I went with trail runners, instead of traditional high ankle hiking boots. Whilst trail runners offer minimal ankle support, they are low to the ground and contain less rigid soles meaning that your ankle is less prone to twisting as you can respond to any uneven ground much quicker. Trail runners are also one of the quickest drying shoes out there, made of predominantly thin breathable materials – though I frequently see the same shoe that features a GTX (GoreTex) version. After trying on a bunch of shoes, I settled on the Altra Lone Peaks (middle in the image below).
In the near future, I will be writing up a more detailed gear post, for those who are interested.
If you would like to check out my complete kit list, see my LighterPack.
T-minus 2 Months: Route Planning
September 2024. Up until this point, I had only been gathering information from other hikers blogs, YouTube and the Te Araroa site. I knew the trail route changed slightly each year and had seen some posts announcing this season’s (2024 – 25) maps. It was time to take a deeper look and plan my route in more detail. I printed a map of New Zealand over four A4 pages and taped them together. I began marking Te Araroa trail, camping areas, and places I wanted to explore on an off the track.
I found a pair of particularly useful maps (though not totally comprehensive) whilst browsing the Te Araroa Facebook Page that provided a good outline of the TA.
Files: North Island and South Island. Credit to Anthony Page
The famous writings of J.R.R Tolkien were brought to life in New Zealand and I found plenty of maps marking popular locations. One of the most iconic – Hobbiton, the home of Bilbo Baggins is located just 45 minutes drive from Hamilton. Hobbiton contains a complete movie set, which was definitely on the list.
I had also planned to take some time to see Mt Cook Village and hike up to Mueller Hut, however organising this was not as straight forward as it sounds. Although I had a complete list of huts on the trail, due to its popularity I needed to estimate exactly what night I would arrive at the hut. I did this as best I could by comparing other travellers walking speeds and distances. I would not be surprised if ill weather would end up changing my schedule. If in doubt, I can always hitch hike to speed sections up!
There are many other places I would like to fit in: Milford sound, Rotorua, Abel Tasman. Hammer Springs… the list goes on, but lets leave that up to future me.
T-minus 1 Month: The Countdown Begins
October 2024. With just a month left, it was all coming together. My kit was almost complete, the route was mapped, and most things felt ready. Laying out my kit on the floor of the living room felt surreal – questioning how I am going to fit everything in my pack, but more so the realisation that these items will be my house for the next 5 months!
Although it may look like these items are 5x larger than my 58L pack, you will be surprised how much these condense down. The photo below doesn’t even include 4 days worth of food or water!
There was one last thing to do – document. I have started this blog as an outlet for my thoughts and experiences – a space away from the buzz of social media. Expect some interesting things to come!
I thought to end this post with a message I saw regarding what Kiwis call Koha:
Koha when understood within the context of Tangata Whenua (Land People) is given of the heart. It is more than a word. It is the norm within a cultural Tangata Whenua context, which has become more widely applied by Tauiwi (people of other cultures) in their everyday lives and how they choose to conduct themselves and rituals or customs within their home or otherwise. Koha is inseparable from Turangawaewae (Standing place), Whakapapa (Genealogy), Manaakitanga (Taking care of).
Koha is an acknowledgement of gratitude of that which has been given (shelter, food, accommodation, role, friendship).
Not all places (private residences) will require, or expect a koha. Rather than identify a $ amount, think of it as how would I like to reciprocate the hospitality given? Perhaps “I’d like to koha to you for your hospitality etc … can I cook a meal, is there something I can do for you? I’d like to reciprocate your hospitality” (manaaki – take care of your guest/host). What has become customary on a marae (traditional tribal meeting place – Turangawaewae), is purely practical today, is the koha of money. That contributes toward the hospitality (manaaki) which is to be given, or has been given.
Koha is a humbling experience for both the giver and the receiver. It is the wairua (spirit) of the act.
— Rob Firmin
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